Go out and figure it out ;)

When I started climbing in the mountains, around 4 years ago, I bought pretty much everything you need, to survive “up there”. But being a total mountain n00b, I didn’t have a clue on what to actually buy. I did not know what I need, let alone what I want, so I asked other, more experienced climbers for advice. What I learned from them was good, and the gear I bought was fine. But by actually using it in real life situations, I quickly realized, that what works perfectly for someone, might not be the best for me.

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Sea to Sky

The Mountain Academy headquarters asked me to contribute a short story to this blog. Well, my story is simple enough: I travel and I climb. Participation in the TMAc2 program actually is only a small part of what I currently do. But of course it does provide a regular rendezvous with the whole cool crew.

In between seasonal stages I just lead that gipsy, dirt bag kind of lifestyle. Continue reading

“Volando entre ñapas”

Foto by Vari Escribano

After two weeks of rainfall predictions seemed to indicate a weekend break with some sun. “El Callejón” is a remote place of San Martin de Valdeiglesias crag of climbing. In this area is hidden a good collection of crimpy routes in a wall of perfect granite, appreciated because its quality, pitch or inclination and high grade. There are grouped four 8a, a project, other three 7c, four 7b, two 7a… and my favorite:

” Volando entre ñapas ” is a 7a+/b committing move full of boulder and balance steps. In just 12 meters are concentrated crimpers, which size of a distal phalange. It must be scratching the rock to cling on to the wall, slightly overhang and tiny feet. These features are ideal for thin fingers and lovers of short and explosive routes.

Foto by Vari Escribano

When you test a route at the limit of your possibilities, the quality of the equipment with which you climb makes the difference and give security in the ascension. The “Ozone Harness Black Diamond” is perfect for its lightness and comfort, feeling free with every movement. Absolute confidence/trust in his strength combined with scant 320 grams, make literally “Fly between small crimp”.

In sport climbing we are tempted to not wear helmets. We invent excuses about vision or weight. We underestimate the danger of a bad fall or even a loose stone. However, thanks to the new materials, much lighter, the range of helmets “Helmet Black Diamond Tracer” has gained strength and lightness, being comfortable and without hindering visibility. There are no excuses for not bringing them!

The clothing also can influence the achievement of the objective, it’s noteworthy the “Mountain Hardwear pants”, being flexible enough to allow a greater legs aperture during the climbing, and reinforcements on the knees prevent from rips. In this way I can give as much “burns” as I need without worrying about external conditions.

Ready to “volar entre ñapas”!!

Cogne – farewell video

This is our farewell video from the very last day in Cogne. After a wonderful ice climbing week the time came to get back to our homes. Although sad to leave we were also very excited about the 4th stage of Mountain Academy coming in June 2012 in Mont Blanc range 🙂

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Layered clothing

The layerd clothing is a princip of clothing, where you use different clothes like layers of the onion (in german: Ziebelschalenprinzip). One of the advantages is that between every layer air can be trapped and act like a thermal insulator. If you have less, but thicker layers, you don’t benefit from this effect.

Good clothing should fulfill the following functions: Transfer moisture from the body away, keep the person warm and protect from rain and wind.

So the basic tree layers from MHW I am using :

My set of basic layers: Drystein jacket (blue), Solidus jacket (red), Nimba Short Sleeve T (orange)

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Discovering ice

Today we bring you another set of memories from Cogne. Below is very personal and bilingual report prepared by Fede. Go ahead and immerse into her impressions from that wonderful week we had not so long ago…

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Alla scoperta del ghiaccio

Discovering ice

Non è la prima volta che mi ritrovo appesa con minute lame appuntite a fragili colate di ghiaccio, nel gelo di budelli ombrosi dimenticati in valli assolate.

It’s not the first time I find myself hanging with tiny pointed blades to frail iced flows, in the chill of shady guts forgotten into sunny valleys.

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