Grand Cornier – a one day trip?

During our week of TMAC in Zinal, Cabane de Grand Mountet, just next to the Dent Blanche, there was this very interessting looking ridge of Grand Cornier. That’s where I decided that this was a ridge I would like to climb once.

So this weekend with a friend of mine we decided to go for it. So we started in Ferpecle on Saturday morning at around 10am. Walking up and up…always looking at the amazing Dent Blanche, I climbed last summer. On the way to the bivouc du col de la Dent Blanche we were stopping for a little rest and had a look on the map. That’s where we realized that we were acutally on the patch which was supposed to go from the valley directly to the summit. With some friends of ours, just walking behind us, we decided that we could go directly to the summit instead of going to the bivouc. So this was the plan…

Walking, climbing, scrambling, passing some huge crevasses…we were on the way to the summit. After around 2100 high meters, 7 hours from the bus station, with 4l of water and lunch for 2 days in the backpack we arrived finally very happy on the summit.

The descent was just nice, with the sunset on the glacier we arrived to the Cabane de Moiry. After some beverages we were hitting the last bit of the day direction down to the vally with our headtorches.

Traverse of Grand Cornier, SW-ridge up and NW-ridge down in 12 hours. What an amazing and unique mountain experience!

Thanks to Steffi and Janick, Michi, Fridli, Dominik, Ivo

on our way up, Dent Blanche

SW-ridge with Dent Blanche

Michi enjoying the Spaghettis from my mum (which were supposed for the bivouc)

Just happy

Steffi…yeah, you are a amazing climbing mate!!!

sunset atmosphere on the glacier

Bonatti-Tabou on Chandelle du Tacul

After tasting the Chamonix-granit in our last week of the MAC, I wanted to get more of if. As Sang and Seb enthused about the Bonatti-Tabou rout on Chandelle du Tacul we went for it! And they were so right!!! 🙂

the amazing 6b+-pitch

Luca in Bonatti-Tabou

Luca on the traverse

direction to Mt.Blanc

on the top with the Grand Capucin in the background

Sea to Sky

The Mountain Academy headquarters asked me to contribute a short story to this blog. Well, my story is simple enough: I travel and I climb. Participation in the TMAc2 program actually is only a small part of what I currently do. But of course it does provide a regular rendezvous with the whole cool crew.

In between seasonal stages I just lead that gipsy, dirt bag kind of lifestyle. Continue reading

Layered clothing

The layerd clothing is a princip of clothing, where you use different clothes like layers of the onion (in german: Ziebelschalenprinzip). One of the advantages is that between every layer air can be trapped and act like a thermal insulator. If you have less, but thicker layers, you don’t benefit from this effect.

Good clothing should fulfill the following functions: Transfer moisture from the body away, keep the person warm and protect from rain and wind.

So the basic tree layers from MHW I am using :

My set of basic layers: Drystein jacket (blue), Solidus jacket (red), Nimba Short Sleeve T (orange)

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Defining the Mountain Academy

What’s better way to understand the Mountain Academy concept than by listening to the team members themselves? During our last stage Denise, Florian and Patryk interviewed everyone around asking them questions about TMAc and what it meant to the crew. Here’s the answer they got:

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Tim and the Team :)

Memories about climbing with Tim? 🙂 “It was a real experience!”…. seriously: for me it was a real honour to climb with somebody like Tim Emmett on such a nice icefall. Before the climb he gave us some useful tips and it was quite impressive how precise he uses his ice axes…every strike was solid! The location was just next to the bridge “Pont d’Intro” in the valley next to Cogne, and the 100 metre icefall itself is called “Happy Christmas” – (apparently, this name comes from the fact that people committed suicide from the bridge around the holy period of Christmas). We really lived life to its full on that wall! [by Denise]

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Candidates speaking on day 2

This time we’ve prepared something special for you! On Monday the whole gang drove to Valsavarenche where they ascended a route called Cascade Rovenaud. Even though they followed the same line their impressions and feelings about it are soooo different 🙂 Read their own words ‘decorated’ with nice pictures from David Ravanel…

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