Last week I was climbing in Chamonix, on a camp organized by Slovenian alpine association. Even thought the conditions were not perfect, we still managed to climb a few really cool routes 🙂
We arrived at Cham on Friday evening and since the weather forecast was good only for the next day, it was time for action. We organized our gear and went straight to bed. Anze and I climbed Le Fil a Plomb (III, 4+, 700m) for acclimatization, picked up our skiis (brought up by our friends) at the Aiguille du Midi, and skied down the Vallee Blanche. Whooooaaaaa … what a ride!!! For two snowboarders, this was quite an experience. After 20km of backflips and frontflips, we came down at night, tired but happy and proud of our first climb in Cham 🙂
It was snowing on Sunday and Monday, so for the next three days, mountain climbing was out of the question. Too dangerous. We had to wait for safer conditions, so we did some sport climbing, drytooling, bouldering, shopping, we played chess, drank beer, browsed through the guidebooks, and talked about mountains, routes and climbing 🙂
Less talk, more action! After three days, we were all eager for some real action. Matic and I decided to climb something shorter, but sweeter – Frendo-Ravanele (II, 5, 500m) in Aiguille Carree above Grand Montets. The first part was hard, because of the new snow, but the rest of the route was amazing. Good ice and snow, with some mixed cruxes.
After that, Matic and I agreed, that instead of two shorter, we would rather do one long route. We decided to go for Frendo spur (V, 5c, 1200m) in Aiguille du Midi. We went up to the Plan de l’Aiguille, slept in the winter room and started walking ath 4 in the morning in hope of catching the last ride down. We started climbing at 7. The conditions at the bottom were bad, there was almost no ice. After 7 pitches of mixed climbing up to M5+, we reached the rocy part. Another 7 pitches of rock climbing up to 5c and we were at the last part. We could already see the top, but we had to fight for every single meter. The conditions were bad and there was alot of black ice, which is really hard to climb and we progressed slowly. We exited the route right at the sunset, completely exhausted but sooooooo happy 🙂 We slept at the Aiguille du Midi, went down with the first ride, packed our gear and opened a beer – we deserved it!!!
It was a great week and I cant wait to come back in June with the Mountain Academy team.
Until then … climb happy 🙂