“Volando entre ñapas”

Foto by Vari Escribano

After two weeks of rainfall predictions seemed to indicate a weekend break with some sun. “El Callejón” is a remote place of San Martin de Valdeiglesias crag of climbing. In this area is hidden a good collection of crimpy routes in a wall of perfect granite, appreciated because its quality, pitch or inclination and high grade. There are grouped four 8a, a project, other three 7c, four 7b, two 7a… and my favorite:

” Volando entre ñapas ” is a 7a+/b committing move full of boulder and balance steps. In just 12 meters are concentrated crimpers, which size of a distal phalange. It must be scratching the rock to cling on to the wall, slightly overhang and tiny feet. These features are ideal for thin fingers and lovers of short and explosive routes.

Foto by Vari Escribano

When you test a route at the limit of your possibilities, the quality of the equipment with which you climb makes the difference and give security in the ascension. The “Ozone Harness Black Diamond” is perfect for its lightness and comfort, feeling free with every movement. Absolute confidence/trust in his strength combined with scant 320 grams, make literally “Fly between small crimp”.

In sport climbing we are tempted to not wear helmets. We invent excuses about vision or weight. We underestimate the danger of a bad fall or even a loose stone. However, thanks to the new materials, much lighter, the range of helmets “Helmet Black Diamond Tracer” has gained strength and lightness, being comfortable and without hindering visibility. There are no excuses for not bringing them!

The clothing also can influence the achievement of the objective, it’s noteworthy the “Mountain Hardwear pants”, being flexible enough to allow a greater legs aperture during the climbing, and reinforcements on the knees prevent from rips. In this way I can give as much “burns” as I need without worrying about external conditions.

Ready to “volar entre ñapas”!!

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