Capucino Grande


Capucino Grande, please…

When we woke up at three o’clock and look at the Bojan’s bed, it was empty. Where the f*** is that crazy guy. We were lucky when we saw him lying on the floor in front of our door. Yeah its true that our roommates were maybe two winter sleeping grizzlies, their inhuman snoring was crazy

Quick breakfast and let’s go. We still didn’t know if it will be possible to climb our goal – Grand Capucin. Because the wind and weather forecast wasn’t the best, we decided to change our plans a little bit and instead of the Bonatti’s route we decided for the shorter Swiss route (TD+, 6b A0, 300m).

Head lamps on and we started walking in freezing cold night, starry sky and kinda strong wind still. When we got closer the wall, wind wasn’t so breezy  anymore and we decided to go there and give a try.

In the wall the temperatures were low and we were waiting for the sun for a long time. Respect for guys (Asper, Bron, Grossi, Morel) which in 1956 went with courage for this wall. For sure they were inspired by Bonatti, which in 1951 found this perfect piece of granite interesting and made there the first beatiful and strenuous line.

Our ascent was much faster than firstascentist’s for sure, but with modern equipment it is not surprising at all. After few metres in crampons we left our ice stuff on the ledge and continued just in boots next two or three pitches, then we start climbing just in climbing shoes and after 4 hours we reached the summit of Grand Capucin.

We liked the most the third and seven pitch which are really nice thin cracks and it was a  pleasure to climb them.

So after we enjoyed the summit view and took some photos, we started the abseiling quickly because the wind was getting stronger.

It was perfect trip with perfect guys and our video shows you that I’m right 😉

Climbers: Luca Blanchet, Milos Kalab, Bojan Hribernik
Text: Milos Kalab
Video: Bojan Hribernik

Cogne – farewell video

This is our farewell video from the very last day in Cogne. After a wonderful ice climbing week the time came to get back to our homes. Although sad to leave we were also very excited about the 4th stage of Mountain Academy coming in June 2012 in Mont Blanc range 🙂

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Defining the Mountain Academy

What’s better way to understand the Mountain Academy concept than by listening to the team members themselves? During our last stage Denise, Florian and Patryk interviewed everyone around asking them questions about TMAc and what it meant to the crew. Here’s the answer they got:

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Icy Dreams

In the midst of solitude and dryness the dreams will make you travel to the wonderful world of TMAc: stage 3-icy dreams in Cogne, Italy. Each stage is a new challenge full of learnings.
If we could show the dreams, would not be necessary words. If we could show the dreams no one could deny them. If we could show the dreams… we could make them come true.

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Tim and the Team :)

Memories about climbing with Tim? 🙂 “It was a real experience!”…. seriously: for me it was a real honour to climb with somebody like Tim Emmett on such a nice icefall. Before the climb he gave us some useful tips and it was quite impressive how precise he uses his ice axes…every strike was solid! The location was just next to the bridge “Pont d’Intro” in the valley next to Cogne, and the 100 metre icefall itself is called “Happy Christmas” – (apparently, this name comes from the fact that people committed suicide from the bridge around the holy period of Christmas). We really lived life to its full on that wall! [by Denise]

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