The Mountain Academy 2

Tim and the Team :)

patrykwarnel — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 12:44:40 +0000

Memories about climbing with Tim? “It was a real experience!”…. seriously: for me it was a real honour to climb with somebody like Tim Emmett on such a nice icefall. Before the climb he gave us some useful tips and it was quite impressive how precise he uses his ice axes…every strike was solid! The location was just next to the bridge “Pont d’Intro” in the valley next to Cogne, and the 100 metre icefall itself is called “Happy Christmas” – (apparently, this name comes from the fact that people committed suicide from the bridge around the holy period of Christmas). We really lived life to its full on that wall! [by Denise]

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Cogne : David’s pictures

asemay — Tue, 21 Feb 2012 21:52:48 +0000

See beautiful pictures about stage 3 in Cogne on David Ravanel’s gallery.

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Goodbye Cogne!

patrykwarnel — Mon, 20 Feb 2012 12:43:57 +0000

The third stage of Mountain Academy is over We’re back at our homes, immersing into everyday duties… But it doesn’t mean we forgot about you, oh no! We’ve still got a plenty of content coming – pictures, reports and videos. All of that just needs a bit of editing So stay with us and visit the blog soon as we’re gonna post them on a regular basis.

Denise, Milos, Florian, Klemen, Isabel, Clarence, Luka and Bojan saying goodbye to Cogne

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A very busy rest day…

patrykwarnel — Fri, 17 Feb 2012 18:24:08 +0000

Wednesday, rest day. With 3 climbing days in the bag and still 2 climbing days to go, it’s perhaps not such a bad idea to have a rest day. It turns out to be a windy, rather cold day. Some of the mountain guides go out, though, for a reconnaissance of the ice lines for the next days. All of the young participants stay inside to dedicate time to the communication part of the programme. Also, there is a small workshop about how to sharpen your ice axes and crampons. But in the late afternoon we really need to get out, get some fresh air; we go for a walk around the village or a run in the snow. After all, we don’t feel that tired yet… When we get back to the albergo, it’s pretty busy with MHW staff and athletes, and journalists. What’s our pick for tomorrow? [by Sang]

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I love climbing ;)

patrykwarnel — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 13:22:43 +0000

One more gift for you. Short & funny video the Mountain Academy team shot for St. Valentine’s Day last Tuesday. Enjoy!

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Day 3 in a nutshell – video

patrykwarnel — Thu, 16 Feb 2012 13:12:54 +0000

Yesterday we hit over 500 viewers on the blog! Thank you guys In return we prepared a day-3-video for you. Despite constant power cuts in the hut, the edit is now ready – hope you’ll enjoy it!

Stay tuned cause we’ve got another surprise coming soon

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Day 3 – (n)ice learning and development

patrykwarnel — Wed, 15 Feb 2012 12:42:57 +0000

On day 3 we focused on learning good techniques, so we split up the group a bit… one team went to some ice crags close to Lillaz, with shorter routes practicing techniques like how to properly position the crampons; good resting techniques on vertical walls; straight arms with bent knees and ankles to avoid the arms to get too pumped, to improve placing the ice-screws correctly, increase the precision with the ice-axes etc. It’s all elementary stuff that’s key to move onwards and upwards!

Isa learning new tricks

The second team went to the Valeille, a place where you can find many world famous ice routes. We did two really nice icefalls: Tuborg (WI 4+/5) and Candelabro del Coyote (WI 4/4+). While we were climbing, we could see two climbers on the opposite side valley, defying the gravity. “Must be two strong Italian climbers, those guys are crazy! One day, one day…” we thought, focusing more on our climbing. But as it turned out, they were none other than Ueli Steck and John Griffith, climbing Jedi Master, world’s first M11. Nice.

Our Jedi Master - Ueli Steck

Everyone’s pretty much “in the zone” by now, we are more relaxed and climb better already. At the end of the day we were all tired and very satisfied. Even though we did not nail an M11, we were all quite proud of our achievements. After all, we spent a beautiful day on ice together!

Don’t do some stupid things like pulling ice-screw with one arm pull-up

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My third ice TMAC day…

asemay — Tue, 14 Feb 2012 21:41:36 +0000

… was a day full of contrasts, making you feel life with such a good taste!

It begun with spring-like weather: for a few hours we were stepping into a warm season it seemed, waking up our feelings and it’s like a breathe of fresh air… and the ice looked like diamond in sunny lights…

It begun with the quiet atmosphere of one single team. No need to speak too much when simply enjoying the moment.

It begun quite easy, a few pitches to warm up to just enjoy the ice climbing.

It became harder, giving mental and technical challenge.

And it became colder under the ice shower, very cold in fact. Totally frozen but happy to be here.

And it ended together, sharing our joys and fears of the day.

This was my third ice TMAC day, simple and full of contrasts – and I loved it!

Candidates speaking on day 2

patrykwarnel — Tue, 14 Feb 2012 13:30:53 +0000

This time we’ve prepared something special for you! On Monday the whole gang drove to Valsavarenche where they ascended a route called Cascade Rovenaud. Even though they followed the same line their impressions and feelings about it are soooo different Read their own words ‘decorated’ with nice pictures from David Ravanel…

Today I learned something very important: how to keep warm in -12 degrees while kicking the ice really crazy with my new best friends – crampons and ice-axes Since nobody was leading the route before us the ice was even harder than the day before… A bit later, when seconding a scary traverse, I lost all my energy trying to fix a stuck rope. After few seconds my forearms were totally pumped and I started to get worried about loosing my axes. I couldn’t rest on my feet neither cause the section was really steep and we we’re front-pointing… Fortunately the other pitches were more enjoyable even though we were climbing in an ‘ice-rain’ pouring down from the top of our rout Well, new experiences, new learnings, enjoying anyway! Isa

Today I was scared a little bit for first time since the Mountain Academy started. I realised that sometimes an easy looking ice can be much harder than expected. I just guess it happens quite often for ice climbing. Also, today I belayed the fall of my partner who suddenly decided to test a new BD ice-screw Definitely it’s good to see that a properly placed ice-screw can hold one’s flight. Nevertheless I don’t plan to test it on my own… Milos

Today was another fine day with the Academy! It was great to see how smoothly the experienced guys move up nearly vertical ice. My own placements didn’t feel nearly as secure. But sure it’s good fun to lead some ice again, after over one year away from the winter games So Denise cruises the last wet pitch; we catch a bit of the sun on the top… Sang

After another tasty breakfast buffet we were heading towards a valley parallel to Cogne – to a village called Rovenaud. Already on the approach to the icefall we felt that the temperaturas were a little friendlier than on the previous days. We all sensed it was going to be another good day!

Before climbing a three-pitch-icefall our group did first some warm up routes. Later on I got a chance to lead the second pitch. As I lifted the ice axe quite high, my jacket moved up and the water started pouring down my pants along the legs Even though I was totally wet, slip included, I felt a deep and complete satisfaction. Another perfect day of the Mountain Academy! Denise

After topping out the Cascade Rovenaud with Milos we decided to repeat the first pitch and then finish our day with some more sportive, steep and demanding icefalls located on the right side of the arch. In order to fulfill our idea of ‘pioneer climbers’ we chose a nice pillar where surely nobody has been before and we really did our best over there!

So it was me leading the last part before the top, getting rid of some brittle ice and placing protection in the right place. ‘Time for the next ice screw’ I thought while looking down, matching hands and trying to get a better position at the same time… and oops… whoaaa… suddenly sitting in the harness some 6m lower, almost at the beginning of the pillar Having the next edge 20cm under me I was glad that Milos was belaying properly. ‘Could have been a different end to it!’ I thought… So no more tricks on one ice axe – that’s for sure – but how the heck do I get me the other ice axe, still hanging 6m above?? Florian

6:59 In the middle of girls’ room. First music notes of the alarm clock make me immediately remember where I am – with the Mountain Academy team in Cogne! Denise’s alarm clock is so typical and always on time (it’s a Swiss watch naturally). Wake up, the second day of the Academy is starting right now

10:42 Here we are, at the bottom of our playground for today. Ready to apply the advice #1 that we were given yesterday: ‘Never hesitate to place an ice-screw’. Time to do some ice climbing!

11:11 OK, finally. New advice #1b has been just given ‘Please try to climb at least one meter before trying to place your next screw’ So the day goes on and we try to apply all the tips&tricks… enjoying ice climbing, enjoying being together, enjoying the place…

14:08 Quite unusual time for a shower, isn’t it? Especially for a cold one… This is it – top of our last pitch!

22:38 After a hot shower, nice evening with the team, ready to fall into ice dreams… waiting for the next day! Aude

First rule of ice climbing: do not fall while ice climbing! Second rule of ice climbing: DO NOT FALL WHILE ICE CLIMBING!!!

After the “introduction to ice climbing” yesterday, we were ready for something a bit more challenging. “Finally, some vertical action” I thought to myself If you want to learn how to climb steep ice, you just have to climb steep ice. It is as simple as that. There is no other way.

So there we were, standing below our first obstacle: a really well-formed, two-pitch WI4. Some of the participants started warming up on the right side, where the ice was steeper, but shorter, with possible belay on the trees for top-rope. The rest of us headed towards the main icefall. Milos and Florian started on the left, and Federica and I started on the right. As I was climbing, Seb kept yelling from the bottom: “Bojan, place a screw there!”, and I thought to myself “oh come on … I just placed one” as I was screwing in another one. But I soon forgot about that, and just kept swinging my tools. Woohooooooo Ice climbing roX

At the top, Jerome also reminded me, that I should place more protection. He told me a story, how he fell 50 meters in the mountains when he was “young and brave”, because he did not put any protection. He was lucky and got out of it with just a few scratches and bruises, but I still did not think much about it. You simply should not fall while ice climbing, I thought.

After we finished with the icefall, five of us went back down, and decided to climb the short but sweet icicles on the right. I started climbing the right one, and Florian decided to go for the left one. I managed to get to the top without many problems, and Federica lowered my to the bottom. But then someone yelled: “aaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhh!!!” As I turned my head, I could see Florian flying down, stopping just before the ledge.

“Whooooaaaaaa dude?!?!? What the hell happened? Are you ok? … Are you sure?”

After Flo rearranged, he explained to us, that his tool came out, when he tried to put the ice screw in. But he was lucky, and his previous protection held. Huh … I always wanted to know if ice screws hold a fall, and I guess now I found out. If placed properly, they do hold a fall

But this does not mean we should fall in ice. First two rules of ice climbing should still be considered as holy Do not fall while ice climbing! Be careful of every single tool placement. Test it by putting weight on it a couple of times. Make sure it is 100% solid, especially on lead. And do place protection, even on easy terrain. Especially on easy terrain! Many times we loose focus when we are climbing inside our comfort zone, and that’s when we make mistakes. Don’t let these words scare you. Go out and climb! Go out and have fun!

We spend another beautiful day, with beautiful people, in beautiful mountains. I can’t wait for tomorrow Bojan

FANTASTICO, MAGNIFICO, INCREDIBILE, MERAVIGLIOSO, STUPENDO…. che altro?? ITALIANO! Fede

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First day on the ice – pretty cool

patrykwarnel — Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:10:21 +0000

Waking up to clear blue skies, freezing temperatures in Cogne on Sunday morning we were all excited about the first day of climbing! The smell of Italian cappuccino from upstairs was another reason to quickly get up and get ready. Our hostel is located on a nice, sunny face up the valley, so we thought we’d better check the gear in the “warmth” instead of down the valley by the freezing ice-fall (erm, ice falls are normally freezing cold… hence the ice. Let’s just say it was fresh in the morning, eh .

Crampons, ice axes, ice screws, harnesses, ropes and all the rest of it ready to be tried out so after a brief by the guides we finally came out after a few hours of faffing around. We went to Cascade de Lillaz which has been described as the “busiest ice climbing spot on earth for beginners” because of its easy five-minutes-walk-from-the-parking access and relatively safe learning spot. Such a great feeling to climb on ice, its impressive structure with water flowing behind is truly beautiful (and scary!), and it took some time to break in the gear and really trust the grip of the crampons and ice-axes. Incredible how strong the ice is though – we practiced some belay techniques like the abalakov thread and were surprised how well it held up. Other useful tips include “keep your head straight and let your helmet take the ice falling from above – i.e. don’t look up!”. It took some time to teach our brains that simple message it seemed, instinctively one always looks up! We all got up in the end and marched down again – it was the perfect day to introductory ice-climbing. It certainly built up some appetite vs. the travelling day before – returning to the hostel we quickly realised why they serve 6 course meals here… every dish tastes great after a day in the outdoors!

Full house

Tomorrow we’re off to Cascade Rovenaud in Valsavarenche for continued adventures… stay tuned…

Aude enjoying her first sunny ice climb!

Tasting Italian ice...cream

Just about to turn around and jump on the icicle - Denise in action

The sky may be the limit but obviously not for Bojan